It would be impossible for me to cover all the brands I saw during Pitti Uomo 92. I will instead focus on the brands that caught my attention.
I met Luca Grassia during the Plaza Uomo Magazine cocktail evening. He was wearing a beautiful beige double breasted suit that straight away caught my attention. I only realised afterwards he was wearing gladiator sandals. For most this combination would not work but Luca pulled if off effortlessly. He was one of the friendliest people I talked to that evening. Despite the language barrier, we were still able to have a nice conversation. He was extremely patient with my seriously lacking Italian.
Sartoria Grassia started in the 1960 on the outskirts of Naples and is currently run by Luca and his brother Salvatore. What I love about Italy is that there is a deep seated respect for culture and tradition. Artisans are shown tremendous love and respect for their art. It is a pity to see that the majority of the younger generation lacks the interest, patience and creativity to become an artisan. This is the exact reason why I was happy to hear that Luca is a third generation tailor and that the passion was handed down from his father.
At the end of the conversation Luca personally invited me to his Spring Summer 2018 preview collection.
I always consider dressing up a sign of respect to others. It shows you took time out of your day to be presentable. Luca was wearing a tuxedo greeting people as they arrived.
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| Luca Grassia looking elegant next to me with hat hair. |
Luca welcomed me and quickly gave me a rundown of the collection. He showed me the new swatches they had on display for bespoke garments. There were subtle swatches on display and very colourful and summery swatches. There were two particular pages that I really liked.
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| My favourite swatches |
The mannequins showcased how both casual and formal garments worked together.
The first mannequin was wearing a 3-piece suit that also had a matching trench coat. You would think that a 3 piece suit with a matching trench coat might be too plain but the tie popped and the outfit worked.
Mannequin 2 was wearing a classic(some would say conservative) navy double breasted blazer paired with a fresh and bright white linen top coat.
Another mannequin was wearing a tobacco coloured field coat that would stand out amongst all the cream, olive and navy coloured field coats out there.
On the racks there was a nice selection of colour and texture.
I generally like touching garments to get a feel for the fabric and it was an absolute pleasure being able to feel all the textures.
Luca also showed to me a number of jackets including a double breasted jacket with fabric from Hermes specifically weaved for Sartoria Grassia.
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| Navy double breasted jacket in the exclusive Hermes Fabric. |
After talking to Luca and seeing the preview collection, I can honestly say that this is a tailoring house I will be keeping an eye on.
I know I will definitely be visiting them if I am ever in Naples.
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