Review: Carnation on the lapel (카네이션온더라펠), Seoul

I discovered Carnation on the Lapel 카네이션온더라펠 (@carnation.on.the.lapel) while studying tailoring in Milan, where I met several Korean tailors. One tailor, in particular, caught my attention with his one piece collar shirt and an intriguing thimble.(which I'll discuss another time).

I became good friends with Lee Dong Hoon (@danilo.tailor) and Lee Sang Eun (@salvatore.tailor). Though they eventually returned to Korea, they encouraged me to visit them if I ever traveled there. When a trip to Korea and Japan was planned a few months later, I asked them to arrange an appointment with Carnation on the Lapel.

Carnation on the Lapel (카네이션온더라펠) :

Googlemaps: 3층, 718 Seolleung-ro, Gangnam District, Seoul, South Korea

Naver : 서울특별시 강남구 선릉로 718, 3층 카네이션 온더 라펠

*I've included Naver since Googlemaps does not really work well in South Korea.

Pretty much everyone in South Korea uses Naver and Kakao talk

Besides MTM Shirts, Carnation on the lapel also offers bespoke and Made-to-measure suiting, MTO shoes and accessories such as ties and pocketsquares. Pretty much everything you would need for lets say a special occasion like a wedding. They have also dressed Korean celebrities like Byun Yo-han (@byunuohan_official) from Mr Sunshine and Ok Taec-yeon (@taecyeonokay) from Vincenzo.

During my first meeting, I met the owner Kim Dong Hyuk (@keeddhh) and his apprentice Ju Hyunseok (@184.3cm_). We discussed my ideas regarding styling and fabric, which was easy since Lee Dong Hoon was already wearing a one piece collar shirt from Carnation. The plan was to purchase two linen one piece collar shirts, one in beige and the other in navy.

The shirt that started it all

Cotton linen selection, I was also tempted by that Hawaian inspired print

Checking the size of the collar of another camp collar shirt

Can you guess which wide stripes I went for? scroll down for the answer!

While selecting fabrics, a striped linen also caught my eye, perfect for a onepiece collar shirt. We discussed details like pocket styling and collar size. They offer a vast array of styling options, including placket styles, pocket styles, shoulder shirring, cuff styles, collar style and peak length to name a few.

Measuring:

After finalising the styling choices, I went to another room to get measured. First my neck was measured and then I was given a sample shirt to try on. when I was happy with the overall fit of a sample shirt, further measurements were taken.

Initial neck measurement

Measurements while wearing the sample shirt

Shoes:

I noticed a brochure for shoes on a table in the room and learned that Carnation also sold made-to-order shoes. I decided on a pair of contrast leather loafers. Needing orthotic insoles, I tried a few sample pairs of oxfords in store to determine my size. The shoes are not made-to-measure but made-to-order, you can customise their styling and leather type (smooth leather or suede) and the colour. The shoes are available in whole sizes and made in Korea.

The try-on shoes and bunches for suiting

More bunches

Try-on shoes also available in brown

Pricing:

Despite the range of customisation, Carnation on the Lapel pricing is quite reasonable:

- Basic MTM cotton shirts start from €107

- Camp collar and one piece collar linen MTM shirts: €132 each

- Basic MTO shoes start from €165

- Belgian MTO loafers: €165

Delivery:

In less than 2 weeks I dropped by again to pick up my order.

as you can tell from the photos, I was happy with the results of the shirts and the shoes.

Given the results, I had to ask if ordering from overseas was an option now that they had my size on file, they said that this would not be an issue and shipping costs would be calculated according to the destination and the weight of the order. If you are ever in Seoul, I high recommend dropping by Carnation on the Lapel.